Monday, October 15, 2007

La Conchita Nooner Sesh...

The tide was big and the spot had two other fellow surfers riding traditional thrusters ~ rippers! The overall condish was less than optimal and a bit walled, which was atypical based on the last month of swells and condish history.
We paddled anyway because it was Taco Bell Bean burritos or get wet; we chose the later and were stoked just to catch a few shoulders and a ton of walled air drops for fun. Sets were solid shoulder high and more or less walled. Should've hit Rincon @ shoulder high sets, but time being the limiting factor and with stickin my legs through my wetsuit sleeves in true chinese fire drill fashion trying to get suited up, board bag pulled and a quickie wax comb; there isn't much more time to spare and still get 6 to 8 waves for lunch and keep my job.
Overall, the sesh was fun, but, I've had it so much better and all to ourselves. We actually call the spot "Illegals" because it's all posted up with "Emergency Parking Only" signs. We called the CHP and they said that it was okay to park on the side of the Freeway as long as it's 100 ft from the last "Emergency Parking" sign.

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